Food

By Ian McNulty

New Orleans, La. –

The rise of the craft cocktail is sometimes lauded as a return to artisanal practices, as bartenders working this niche embrace the small batch ingredients and hands-on techniques that were the rule before modern brands and premade mixes. But just how far back does this return stretch?

Marinated Shrimp and Corn (Serves 6)

From Marcelle Bienvenu's No Baloney On My Boat

3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons Creole mustard
2 tablespoons chopped chives or green onions
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 pounds large shrimp, cooked in seasoned water then peeled and deveined
2 cups of fresh corn kernels
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

By Ian McNulty

New Orleans, La. –

Every winter, as the banana trees in our backyards turn the color of grocery bags and as we start seeing our own breath in our oh-so-well-ventilated shotgun homes, it's easy to doubt that old saw about New Orleans being the northernmost port of the Caribbean. But that was then, and this is summer.

Basic Bitters Recipe

Ingredients:
1 cup grain alcohol
1/4 cup of any single or blend of dried herbs, fruit, fruit peels or flowers

By Ian McNulty

New Orleans, La. –
Dinner guests at Stacey Greco's home in Hahnville were forever saying that her remoulade sauce was so good she should bottle it. Don Militello heard much the same thing from fellow tailgaters around Tiger Stadium before LSU football games whenever he broke out an olive salad made from an old family recipe called "olive mix." And the same advice greeted Gentilly resident Monique Hodges once she started bringing her cupcakes around to family parties.

SAVORY PAIN PERDU (Serves 4)

8 SLICES OF FRENCH BREAD,
SLICED 1 1/2 INCH THICK
1 1/2 CUPS OF MILK
6 EGGS
1 TABLESPOON HOT SAUCE (OR TO TASTE)
8 OZ. HERBED SOFT CHEESE (GOAT, FARMER'S OR SEASONED CREAM CHEESE COMBINED WITH FRESH HERBS OF CHOICE)
4 TBS BUTTER

Cut a pocket, from the side, into the center of each piece of French bread. Divide the cheese into 1/8ths and insert one piece into each slice of bread.