T. Susan Chang http://wwno.org en Sous Vide Makes Its Way To The Home Kitchen http://wwno.org/post/sous-vide-makes-its-way-home-kitchen <em>Sous vide.</em> Not that long ago, it sounded so exotic — or, at least, so <em>French</em>. It was a phrase that belonged in restaurants, amid white tablecloths and flower arrangements and hushed conversations. Alternatively, it was a word that belonged to the modernist kitchens just beyond the swinging doors — kitchens filled with gleaming dehydrators and transglutaminase "meat glues" and spherification siphons and more.<p>I first heard it in the kitchen of now-famous Wylie Dufresne's first restaurant, 71 Clinton Fresh Food, where I was a clueless intern in the spring of 2000. Wed, 16 Apr 2014 16:43:27 +0000 T. Susan Chang 58637 at http://wwno.org Oranges: Secret Agents Of The Food World http://wwno.org/post/oranges-secret-agents-food-world For me, the citrus fruits of winter have been bright spots in a long, frost-bound season. The lemons, the oranges, the sweet little clementines, the tart, brawny grapefruits — they glow like miniature suns on the grayest afternoons. As we — finally — turn the long, slow corner in the spring, I love them all the more for knowing they will soon be gone.<p>The flavor we love in the flesh of a citrus packs even more power in the zest. Wed, 19 Mar 2014 16:19:54 +0000 T. Susan Chang 56515 at http://wwno.org The Stars Come Out For Holiday Bakers http://wwno.org/post/stars-come-out-holiday-bakers As a young woman, I had an attack of nostalgia for a possibly imaginary cookie. It was prompted by a walk up New York's Third Avenue, where I saw in the bakery case of a local delicatessen a stack of small round cookies, covered in the tiny rainbow sprinkles known as nonpareils. Mon, 23 Dec 2013 20:27:57 +0000 T. Susan Chang 50694 at http://wwno.org You Can't Judge A Celery Root By Its Looks http://wwno.org/post/you-cant-judge-celery-root-its-looks Imagine how celery root feels at the vegetable beauty pageant. Everyone's falling over the tomato, that smug beauty queen. The cameras love elegant long carrots and parsnips, and the radishes blush in the spotlight. People coo over the potatoes even though they're not much to look at, because they're in it for the fries.<p>But homely celery root hovers by the concessions table with big, unremarkable rutabaga and antennaed kohlrabi.<p>The fact is, celery root devastatingly combines the unfamiliar with the unprepossessing — all gnarly tendrils and clod-like form. Fri, 22 Nov 2013 00:36:43 +0000 T. Susan Chang 48612 at http://wwno.org In Roasts, A Touch Of Fruit Brings Out The Best In Meat http://wwno.org/post/roasts-touch-fruit-brings-out-best-meat When the late, great Marcella Hazan passed away a few weeks ago, many people recalled with fondness her recipe for roast chicken with two lemons, and so did I. It was one of the first recipes I ever learned. I loved it at every time of year, but never more than in fall. Did it even count as cooking? It was nothing more than a small chicken, seasoned and roasted with two pierced lemons in the cavity, but it had a way of warming people from the inside out. The juices deceived the senses, suggesting hours of care and attention. Wed, 13 Nov 2013 02:52:15 +0000 T. Susan Chang 47676 at http://wwno.org Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes http://wwno.org/post/roasted-tomatoes-perfect-accessory-summer-dishes At this time of year, we all love tomatoes. Many of us claim we'll "take a big juicy tomato and bite into it like it's an apple," although you won't often see that happen in actual fact.<p>Yet, even people who love a juicy fresh tomato also are likely to enjoy it with all the juice sucked out, as in sun-dried tomatoes and — especially — roasted tomatoes. It's the way the process acts on flavors, caramelizing what's on the outside, concentrating what's on the inside. It's true even for a soulless, pale-pink January tomato. Wed, 28 Aug 2013 20:07:04 +0000 T. Susan Chang 42742 at http://wwno.org Wandering Appetites: Hunting The Elusive Noodle http://wwno.org/post/wandering-appetites-hunting-elusive-noodle <em>On the Noodle Road</em> is one attempt to answer an old chestnut: Did Marco Polo really bring noodles from China to Italy? If not, where did they really come from? Or — to put it another way — from what point along the storied byways of the Silk Road did that humble paste of flour and water first spring into its multifarious existence?<p>This is the second outing from Asian-American food writer and Beijing cooking school proprietor Jennifer Lin-Liu. In her first, <em>Serve The People,</em> Lin-Liu chronicled her education in traditional Chinese food ways. Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:14:12 +0000 T. Susan Chang 41283 at http://wwno.org Buttermilk Makes Everything Taste A Little Better http://wwno.org/post/buttermilk-makes-everything-taste-little-better It started happening about 15 years ago. I'd be paging through a new cookbook or browsing through recipes online, and I'd suddenly stop. "Mmm, buttermilk biscuits. Doesn't that sound good?" I'd bookmark the site or dog-ear the page. The next week I'd see a recipe for waffles — buttermilk waffles, as it happened. What a splendid idea. Out came the yellow stickies.<p>Then it was fried chicken, first bathed in buttermilk brine. Buttermilk pork chops and buttermilk cornbread. Buttermilk ice cream and buttermilk panna cotta. Buttermilk <em>okra</em>. Sat, 03 Aug 2013 16:58:44 +0000 T. Susan Chang 40951 at http://wwno.org Scape Velocity: Green Garlic Takes Flight http://wwno.org/post/scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight If you've never grown garlic, here's how you do it: On a bright cool fall afternoon, before the ground has frozen, you pry an ordinary, unpeeled clove of garlic off the bulb. You plant it in the ground, about 4 inches down and pointy side up. Maybe you cover the soil with some straw to protect it from extremes of heat, cold and drought.<p>Then comes the easy part — you forget about it. Thanksgiving comes, and a procession of seasonal holidays in which a lot of garlic is eaten, but none is given much thought. Wed, 10 Jul 2013 15:02:11 +0000 T. Susan Chang 39218 at http://wwno.org Try A Do-It-Yourself Mother's Day http://wwno.org/post/try-do-it-yourself-mothers-day My mother didn't plant a great many spring bulbs. But over by the pachysandra patch, there was a single lovely pink tulip, and I kept my eye on it for two weeks before Mother's Day. When that Sunday morning arrived, I rushed out, snipped it and ran inside to where she lay sleeping to present it to her. "Did you pick that outside?" she inquired, her expression shifting from sleepy surprise to something more complicated. I nodded proudly. "Oh ... Wed, 08 May 2013 15:08:54 +0000 T. Susan Chang 34925 at http://wwno.org