New Orleans witnessed a magnitude of change overnight that it might otherwise have taken an entire generation to work upon our touchstones of home. Restaurants that seemed timeless, and maybe even permanently fixed in their ways, were part of that as well.
As we mark another Katrina anniversary, some of them vividly illustrate a dynamic we can sum up as "the same, but different."
Are the skills required to handle a roast beef po-boy passed down the family line? And when are New Orleans kids old enough to manage their own? These are some of the questions that come up when considering one of the city's classic sandwiches.
Almost any kind of comeback gets New Orleans excited, since the city lost so much in the flood after Hurricane Katrina. That goes especially for food.
One year ago Saturday, New Orleans lost a beloved brand when Hubig's pie bakery burned to the ground. The hand-held, fruit-filled crescents, fried golden-brown, had been delivered fresh to more than 1,000 local stores each morning.
Pie fans have come out in droves to support the company. But it takes more than T-shirts and fond memories to restart a business from scratch.